Victorian fashion

Explore what the photographs from the opening weeks of Tower Bridge can tell us about Victorian fashion.

Fashion history

Dr. Serena Dyer, Fashion Expert and Associate Professor of History of Fashion and Material Culture at De Montfort University, helps us unpick the clues to be found in Victorian clothing and offers some insights into the people featured in the previously-unseen pictures.

In the early 19th century, almost all clothing was custom-made or second-hand, tailored to fit the buyer.

By the end of the century, ready-made garments became more common for both the elite and working-class. Fashion magazines have also become incredibly popular, and more people have access to changing trends. If you had money, you might go to a department store for your ready-made clothes, but a lot of working Victorians would also get things second-hand remade for them.

Unlike today’s fast fashion, Victorians valued and cared for their clothes. In the early 19th century, almost all clothing was custom-made or second-hand, tailored to fit the buyer.

Sunday best

Whatever your place was within the social class system of the 19th century, you’re going to have your everyday clothing, but you’re also still going to have your Sunday best.

For men, that is a variation of the three-piece suit, made out of wools and natural fibres, which are actually incredibly breathable and comfortable even in hot weather.

For women, you’re going to be wearing a simplified version of the fashions of the time. For elite women in the 1890s, this would include big sleeves and beautifully bell-shaped skirts.

Bowler hats

A 19th century aristocrat commissioned a London hat maker to create a hat to protect the heads of his beaters when out on a hunt. When the aristocrat went to see the new hat, he threw it on the floor and he stamped on it – it was undamaged!

From that moment it became the hart hat of the working Victorian man. It wasn’t bright yellow with high visibility tape on it, but it was the hard hat of the Victorian worker.

Today, we might associate the bowler hat with the character of Mr. Banks from Mary Poppins, with bankers and people working in the City. But middle classes didn’t start wearing bowler hats until the beginning of the 20th century. It’s a fascinating example of a fashion going from the working people up the social ranks to the middle classes.

Not so sepia

Colours of the clothes in this period were far more vibrant than we might think.

When we look back at sepia and black and white photographs, it seems that everything is quite sombre. But actually, by the end of the 19th century, aniline dyes have been invented, which give us fantastic vibrant colours.

Looking at some of these re-colourised photos helps us to imagine some of the vibrancy that was the Victorian street.

Learn about colourised photos